The Girl from Ipanema
Discovered at Last
Story and Photos by TIM BOXER
BRAZIL’S
star is in ascendant. Especially in food, drink and an emerging fashion
industry that’s setting new trends at home and, hopefully, abroad. So
this is a good time to conclude my search for the Girl from Ipanema.
Brazil became famous in the
‘60s when composer Tom Jobina and lyricist Vinicius de Morais wrote that
famous song that took the world by storm.
The two talented guys would sit
in a café in Ipanema, a beachfront area next to the district of
Copacabana, and engage in that time-honored activity peculiar to the male
species: girl watching.
One day they fixed their eyes on
a certain blonde who would pass by every day. They were so fascinated by
her beauty that they were moved to write The Girl from Ipanema, the
song that stirred the hearts of young men the world over.
It’s four decades later, and
Brazil is hot again, sparked by the singular explosion of its most
glamorous export – supersexy Gisele Bundchen, Vogue’s model of
the year 1999.
I flew down aboard Varig
Airlines. I had essential assistance in my quest from my able escort,
Maria Brito of Riotur, the city’s tourism office.
I kept straying toward the
expansive Copacabana beach where young people were playing soccer, even in
the late evening under bright spotlights, and fishermen were hauling in
their catch in the early morning.
I made my way to the outdoor
bazaar in Ipanema, where excellent hand-crafted leather goods was a big
item with out-of-town visitors.
But Maria kept guiding me to the
museums, cathedrals, restaurants, opera house and even a cruise of
Guanabara Bay. Hans Stern, owner of H. Stern, the most name in Brazilian
jewelry renowned the world over, graciously put his boat our disposal. We
took a leisurely cruise, affording us a majestic view of the grand hotels
and architecture of the shoreline.
Next day, I toured the H. Stern
factory and showroom. Very impressive and highly recommended for everyone
visiting Rio. Stern started his empire with $200 in 1940. Today he
oversees an empire comprising more than 150 retail shops in 12 countries.
He has to be in his late 80s, yet still comes to the office and works as
the CEO.
I was so grateful for the cruise
in Stern’s boat that I lingered in his showroom long enough to pick out
a diamond necklace for my wife. I felt guilty that Nina was not with me to
enjoy the sights. The salesman was kind enough to give me a 10 percent
discount. I suspect he does that for every visitor.
I went to the Municipal Theater
to see the opera O Guarani. Even though I didn’t understand
Portuguese, I enjoyed the performance and music tremendously.
I dressed in a suit – after
all, this is opera – but I was surprised to find that most people wore
sport shirts or jackets without ties, and even jeans! In contrast, the
women came in evening dresses and beautiful gowns.
Remarkably,
even the orchestra was laid back. The musicians were in business suits.
The conductor was the only one in black tie.
The National Museum of Native Art
was an interesting place. On display were works of self-taught native
painters from various parts of the country. The artists do not belong to
any school or trend. Being free of constraint, they paint without rules.
They’re called “naïve” painters. A brochure calls them
“anarchical poets of the brush.”
I especially enjoyed touring
Sitio (farmhouse) of Roberto Burle Marx. He was a famous landscape
gardener and artist who bought this property in 1949 to preserve native
plants. He lived here until his death seven years ago.
The chapel on the grounds, built
by the Portuguese in 1681, lay in ruins until Marx restored it. It is used
by the neighboring residents.
Another museum well worth a visit
is Casa do Pontal , the largest museum of Brazilian folk art. More than
200 artists contributed some 5,000 images of local everyday living.
Showcases display statuettes of vivid visual narratives of life and
culture in the countryside – wedding, mass, death, carnival, beasts,
girls and boys at play.
One room was closed – to keep
out the children. I opened the door and entered a world of erotica. The
shelves along the walls were filled with figurines depicting all manner of
copulation. I won’t say anymore. You have to see it for yourself.
So as not to disappoint me, Maria
took me to Garota de Ipanema, the very restaurant where Jobina and de
Morais got their inspiration for their famous song. I sat there, too, but
did not see the girl from Ipanema.
However, from newspaper clippings
and photos displayed on the wall I learned that the girl the songwriters
ogled was a beauty named Helo Pinheiro, who was 17 at the time.
When I returned home, I found my
own “Girl from Ipanema” waiting for me. Nina is my girl from Queens. |
