EW ORLEANS is back in the business of luring visitors with a vengeance. Katrina in August 2005 failed to deliver a fatal knockout to the city’s No. One industry, tourism. Recovery projects reportedly costing $100 million, financed by the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA), is fueling a rebuilding boom. Convention business is creeping back, according to the New Orleans Metropolitan Convention and Visitors Bureau. The year before Katrina, 977,829 room nights were sold. In 2007, some 589,000 room nights were sold. This year expect more than 636,000.
Hollywood has sent a bit of its glamour to the Crescent City. Take a stroll in the fabled French Quarter and you’ll see several celebrity homeowners. Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie share a luxury nest here. Francis Ford Coppola has a home on Governor Nicholls St.
On the corner of Governor Nicholls St. and Royal St. stands the home of Nicolas Cage. "That’s the most haunted house in New Orleans," Bonnie Warren said. Cage maintains a second domicile in the Garden District.
Believe it or not, Bonnie is familiar with the spirit side of the Big Easy, having lived in the French Quarter for 14 years above the Moss Antique Shop. Once she got up in the middle of the night, suddenly aware of a presence in the room. "I turned and noticed the indentation of a man’s body in the bed next to me," she said. "I found out it was the ghost of a priest named Father Roquette from the 1800s."
Our visit to the Crescent City consisted of art and antique hopping. There are so many museums to explore, among them the National D-Day Museum, Ogden Museum of Southern Art, Louisiana State Museum, New Orleans Museum of Art. See them all at www.NewOrleansMuseums.com.
Board a streetcar in the French Quarter and it will bring you to the New Orleans Museum of Art (NOMA), located at City Park.
"We were blessed," said NOMA director John Bullard. "Because we are above sea level, only one sculpture was damaged in the outdoor Sculpture Garden. The rest was easily cleaned. But there was $2 million damage to the garden."
The Sculpture Garden and its reflecting pools showcase 50 masterworks including Claes Oldenburg, the greatest pop art sculptor, as well as Robert Indiana, Henry Moore, Rene Magritte and others.
A tour inside the museum gave us tremendous joy. NOMA’s permanent collection numbers more than 40,000 (who’s counting?) worth $240 million. Its strength lies in American and French art, photography and glass, plus African and Japanese art.
One gallery is devoted to the works of Peter Carl Faberge (1846-1920), master jeweler to the czars. The photography collection of 7,000 images features gifted Louisiana photographers. See much more at www.noma.org.
Dr. Richard Gruber, director of the Ogden Museum of Southern Art, welcomed us to his charming palace of Southern art. What’s really delightful is Ogden After Hours, a series of music programs on Thursday evenings. www.ogdenmusueum.org.
At the Contemporary Arts Center (CAC), executive/artistic director Jay Weigel said the building used to be a warehouse. In fact this neighborhood was Bum’s Row. An influx of artists transformed the area into the Warehouse District, brimming with galleries and studios and creative activity.
CAC, which showcases modern pop art, devotes a room to a young artist in Indonesia, Eko Nugroho. It’s a space designed to contemplate the vision of an individual spewing venom for America. I found his not-too-subtle project loathsome. He accuses the U.S. of terrorism. This is not art, but propaganda. Then again, this is free speech. And that’s why his work can be displayed here without riots in the streets. It’s the spirit of New Orleans. www.cacno.org.
Where To Stay
Harrah’s
228 Poydras St.
504 533-6522
www.harrahs.com
This luxury hotel, and adjacent casino, in the Business District is conveniently within walking distance to the French Quarter, where we spent most of our time. There are a variety of six restaurants. Enjoy the dramatic art works displayed in public areas as well as in the private rooms. Where To Eat
New Orleans is rated among the three best cities for food, along with New York and Paris. With 3000 eating places to indulge in this unique cuisine scene, you can choose Creole, Cajun, seafood, vegan and other cooking styles.
Brennan’s
417 Royal St., French Quarter
504 525-9711
www.brennansneworleans.com
Famous for the best breakfast in town. Muriel’s
801 Chartres St., Jackson Square
504 568-1885
www.muriels.com
Once an elegant private home. Owner Rick Gratia offers contemporary Creole dining. Great Sunday jazz brunch. Galatoire’s
209 Bourbon St., French Quarter
504 525-2021
www.galatoires.com
Outstanding restaurant that earned many awards for quality and excellence. Harrah’s New Orleans
228 Poydras St.
504 533-6000
The Gulf Coast’s top gaming destination offers excellent eating venues such as the acclaimed Besh Steakhouse; Riche restaurant, a French brasserie; and Bambu, an Asian fusion of Chinese, Japanese, Thai and Vietnamese. Who To Contact
New Orleans Tourism Marketing Corporation
504 524-4784
www.NewOrleansOnline.com New Orleans Metropolitan Convention & visitors Bureau
504 566-5011
www.neworleanscvb.com